I am trying to build a PC for high-res video editing (2K and a bit of 4K with Premiere Pro), audio manipulation, general use, and a touch of gaming. I want it to look cool, but not sacrifice money or performance for looks. I have done some research and found some parts that I might use, but I need advice to continue. I will probably not overclock my PC.

Part List

I made a part list on PCPartPicker, which is here.


  1. Would you recommend getting thermal paste like this for the CPU?
  2. Are there any other suggested parts?
  3. Is there a way to keep it as good as it is but make it cheaper? A friend told me I could use a 1070 graphics card instead of a 1080. Would the difference be noticeable?
  • What's your budget? I'm guessing around $1800. Do you particularly care about money?
    – JMY1000
    Jan 5 '18 at 2:57
  • Got a few tweaks I'm going to post, but for the most part, pretty good.
    – JMY1000
    Jan 5 '18 at 3:30
  • Yes. Definitely under 2000; preferably less than 1800
    – Kognise
    Jan 5 '18 at 3:50
  • Would you like to go significantly cheaper than your current build in return for sacrificing a little performance? How far? What about used components?
    – JMY1000
    Jan 5 '18 at 4:04
  • No used components
    – Kognise
    Jan 5 '18 at 4:05

TL;DR: Minor bugfixes and improvements.

The rest of my answer is predicated on the assumption that you basically want the cost to remain around the same point, as well as performance. See the body for more details.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant enter image description here StackExchange, please add table support to your markdown.

Breakdown by component


Though personally I would advocate for a switch either to the 8600K or a Ryzen 7 1700 (or lower) to save cash, these create fundamentally different systems. The 8600K drops HT–most workloads will stay the same, including gaming, but a few won't do quite as well; the Ryzen 7 1700 has significantly lower single core performance and won't do quite as well in games and other mostly single threaded workloads, but has two additional cores for multithreaded workloads, has SMT, and costs significantly less. As such, I've maintained the 8700K to keep the caliber the same, as well as the strengths.


Same. IMO it's a great cooler, especially for the price, with clean looks to boot.

Thermal compound

Though there is compound included in the box, it's cheap silicone stuff. It's unlikely to really hurt performance in any meaningful way, but given the caliber of build you're building, a little Arctic Silver can't hurt. Plus, more thermal compound is always fun!


Probably the largest switch here. The main reason I made this switch was to integrate the wireless solution into the motherboard. This cleans up aesthetics and leaves I/O open, and gets you either (depending on the board) a much cheaper build or a much nicer board.

I picked the Asus ROG STRIX Z370-E Gaming board over two cheaper boards: the Gigabyte Z370 Aorus Gaming Wi-Fi and the ASRock Z370 Killer SLI/ac. The primary purpose here is looks: IMO, the RGB lighting, I/O cover, M.2 cover, and multiple RGB headers make this a flexible, good looking board. You also get better power delivery and some minor features in the BIOS, but these are largely secondary. If you think the fairly steep $80 price increase isn't worth it, I'd recommend the ASRock Z370 Killer SLI/ac; I've had some very poor experiences with Gigabyte support in the past and (though their products are fine in themselves) I prefer to stay away from them when possible.


The change here is fairly minor, but I gave a little more flex in RAM speed in return for a slightly cheaper price. The return on investment for higher speed memory isn't worth the money for the most part above 2666 MHz on Z370.


I picked the much faster (roughly 40%) and only slightly more expensive Samsung 850 EVO M.2 over the WD Blue M.2. It's green, which is a bit of a bummer, but if you go with a motherboard with an M.2 cover, you won't be able to see it anyways. Neither of these drives are what I'd describe as particularly fast though, and even fast SATA SSDs will beat them. If you're willing to sacrifice a little bit of cleanliness, I might recommend the slightly cheaper and faster Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5", along with maybe an HDD for mass storage.

Video card

As much as I'm a fan of the Founder Edition look, it just doesn't make much sense outside of a small form factor case or water cooling. FE cards run hot, and the EVGA Superclocked model is barely any more expensive and should perform better while running cooler and quieter.

Depending on what resolution and framerate you're targeting in what games, a GTX 1080 may be rather overkill. If you can give me more info on those, that'd be great.


You're spending a lot of money, I'd treat myself to the improved S340 Elite. It's got a larger glass side panel than the original. That's the main thing.

Most of my time with my rig has been in an S340 (not Elite.) Nice case.


Not that your PSU was a bad choice, just that a similar power supply with a slightly higher wattage could be had for a little cheaper. To be fair, the RM650x is a slightly better power supply than the Toughpower Grand aside from that. Really, anything that fits the parametric filter should be fine; pick a power supply as you deem appropriate from there.


No changes really. There are other ways to get cheap keys, but I won't go into those since they're a bit of a grey area.

Answers to questions

  1. Yes
  2. Yes
  3. No since you'll get some in the box, but I'd recommend it because of the cooler choice.
  4. Monitor, keyboard, mouse! Maybe headphones or speakers.
  5. Sort of. See the main body.
  6. Again, see main body.
  7. Use a magnetic screwdriver if you have one. Go slow, be careful inserting the CPU, remember your I/O shield. Yes, CPU coolers can be a bit of a pain. Remember your motherboard standoffs. Cable management really makes things look much better. Keep all the boxes and the CPU socket cover. Have fun!
  • Thanks! 1) I have accessories. 2) Is there a version of the mobo you chose without rgb lighting? 3) For the gpu I am doing video editing in 2k and a teeny bit of 4K, using premiere and after effects.
    – Kognise
    Jan 5 '18 at 4:49
  • @UnknownUser 2. No, but you can just turn it off, though at that point I might recommend going with one of the cheaper boards. 3. What resolution are you gaming at?
    – JMY1000
    Jan 5 '18 at 4:51
  • mainly 1080p (2k)
    – Kognise
    Jan 5 '18 at 5:55
  • What games do you play at what settings?
    – JMY1000
    Jan 5 '18 at 5:58
  • Truthfully, I don't do a lot of gaming. That is not the main purpose of this PC. The only game I really play is Minecraft.
    – Kognise
    Jan 5 '18 at 15:31

If you're doing anything super intensive editing wise I'd go for a quadro, but if you're just splicing clips, making wedding vids and the like a 1070/1080 will do you fine. I think you'll benefit more from single core performance in this build. Go for intel.

One thing to consider are accessories like the palette gear if you do a lot of editing on a regular basis.

  • Quadros aren't going to help in Premier except under very specific circumstances; the main thing they add for video editing is support for better color and other specific features.
    – JMY1000
    Jan 5 '18 at 6:45
  • Exactly! No arguement there. Jan 5 '18 at 6:55

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